Mike's Archery & Custom bowstrings LLC

How to install and tune your new string and cables!

Home
Products
Tunning Tips & More!
Myth Buster's of Archery - By Mike
Customer's Bows!
Photo Album Page
Links-Other Great Web Sites

Installing your strings and cables can be very hard or it can be easy. It depends on your state of mind. If your hard headed then just expect it to be hard but if your open minded then its easy. The pro shops are trained by the bow manufactures on how to install the strings and cables and how to add or subtract twists to get the right draw length and poundage for your bow. The call out for the axle to axle and brace-height are just guide lines not exact measurements because its impossible for every draw length to have the same axle to axle and brace-height. That's why manufactures say approximate on there listings. See Mathews listing on the side.
I am going to show you how to install your string and cables and how to tune your string and cables far beyond the pro shops and manufactors. This level of tunning is what the pro's know and do that's why they shoot so good!

Step # 1 Installing Strings

The first thing you should do is put your bow in the bow press and tighten slowly until string and cables are just lose. You can get a good Apple press from J & J Archery Repair on the home page.

bowinpressJPG.jpg

Next open your package with the string and cables. Be very careful not to bend serving hard because they are put on at 300+ pounds of pressure and bending them will cause separation because they are not under tension. When they are put on the bow they will go under tension and string will strink causing the serving to loosen a little for fit. If you bend or twist serving hard or alot looking at it the larger string due to no tension will cause serving to separate because its larger when not under tension. Also when the string is put under tension any small cracks will close after a few shots because the string strinks and the serving will tighten up due to the shrinking of the string.

Next take the old cable off the bow. Then take the new cable by the hand and hold the ends so not to let the twist come out when you cut the string that is holding the ends together. If you drop it or twists come lose don't worry. No big problem. No matter what you do you have to add and subtract twist for tuning.

loopends.JPG

cutloopends.JPG

Next install the new cable. Start with the split "Y" ends. Then attach the other end to the cam. If you have no split "Y" put the longer serving on the top cam and shorter serving on bottom. Its the opposite for the other cable.(Bi-Nary/Tri-nary cams)

hookupcable.JPG

idlerwheel.JPG

Next take off your old string and cable slide. Then take your new string and cut string that is holding the ends together just like the cable so not to let twists out. Put the new string on. If you don't know how to put the string and cable back on the right posts then you should have a pro shop do this. 

Now carefully check to make sure that everything is hooked up the same as before and slowly release tension on press and watch to make sure that none of the strings come off end posts or out of cam/idler wheel tracks. Your strings are now on the bow and ready for tuning.

Step # 2 Tuning your string and cables for draw length and poundage.

It is very important that you know and understand how the bow works with your strings. The information below will explain how your bow works and how strings and cables work. This information is needed before tuning.  

The first step in tuning your string and cables is checking the bow to make sure its hooked up right. Check where the cables cross by the cable guard. There should be a small space between the cable and string on a solo cam and on two cam/hybrid cam should cross in the middle.

cableslidespace.JPG

100_0980.JPG

After you have checked the bow to make sure its hooked up right its time for cam or idler wheel alinement. Add twists to either side of the split "y" on the idler wheel or cam until it runs true with string. Most bows you will need to add 5 or so twists to get the cam or idler wheel level.You can use a arrow on the side to make sure it runs true to the string. This fixes any cam lean and sets cam or idler wheel for level travel.See picture on the side.  

Now that your bow is in alinement so the cam or idler wheel is producing straight roll over and straight nock travel on the horizontal level. Its time for the next important step. Adjusting your draw length. This is what world field archery and national target archery champion Larry Wise says about draw length. "If you don't plan on adjusting your bows draw length so you shoot it from the middle of the valley, then don't plan on winning the tournament next week and don't plan taking that trophy whitetail next hunting season."

This part is where people really pull their hair out and even pro shops make big mistakes. Most people focus so hard on axle to axle and braceheights being perfect that they lose sight of what's important. Accurate cast of the arrow by cam rotation and draw length.

overrotatedcam.JPG

In the picture on the side the string is put on the #1 posts which gives the bow a 1/2" longer draw length at 28.5 inch because when moved to the posts its just like adding 1/2" to the string making the draw 1/2" longer. The axle to axle length is 33 1/4 and brace-height is 6 3/4. The bows poundage is 72.

camrotationright.JPG

In the picture here the string is set on the #2 posts for a draw length of 28 inches. The axle to axle is 33" and the brace-height 7". The poundage is 71 pounds.
This here is the call out specs for this bow. So as you can see from the top specs and the bottom specs that the axle to axle and brace-height change when the draw is changed. If they don't then your draw will never be right and the poundage will be different.

underrotatedcam.JPG

In the picture on the side the string is put on the #3 posts. This shortens the draw 1/2" just like shorting the string a 1/2". So the draw length is 27.5" and poundage is 70 pounds. The axle to axle is 32 3/4 and the brace-height is 7 1/4.

So as you can see the axle to axle and the brace-height change depending on your draw length. If they don't change then your poundage doesn't stay consistent and its impossible to get the correct length. They must change to fit your poundage and draw length.

Your string and cable or cables are adjustable from 1/2" to 1" in length. This is plenty of room for adjustments just in case the manufacturer give you the wrong length.

"To be continued!!"

Enter supporting content here

Mike's Archery & Custom Bowstrings 2007-2013
You can contact me with questions or money order.
Made in U.S.A.
Thank you to all my customers and great success in archery!
Working together for better archery products.
Thanks Mike